Surf science an introduction to waves for surfing Third Edition by Tony Butt, Rick Grigg, Paula Russell ISBN 978-0824839543 ‎ 0824839544

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Product details: 

ISBN 10:  ‎ 0824839544

ISBN 13:  978-0824839543

Author:  Tony Butt,  Rick Grigg,  Paula Russell

Have you ever wondered where waves come from? What makes every one different, why some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, waves come in sets of six and others in sets of three, and what factors affect the behavior of a surfing break? If you have, this book is for you.

Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer’s point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don’t need a scientific background to read it―just curiosity and a fascination for waves.

Table of contents:

 1 Introduction
2 Large-scale Air Movements
3 Formation of a Depression
4 Growth of Waves on the Ocean
5 Propagation of Free-travelling Swell
6 Waves in Shallow Water
7 Wave-breaking
8 The Temperature of the Water
9 Local Winds on the Coast
10 The Tides
11 Rips
12 Forecasting 1: Basics
13 Forecasting 2: Inside the Black Box
14 Forecasting 3: Surfing in the Storm

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Tags: Tony Butt, Rick Grigg, Paula Russell, Surf science, an introduction